Saturday, July 31, 2021

The Reopening - The View from Hawaii



Earlier this month my family and I spent a week in Maui. In case you haven't heard, it is really, really beautiful--a great vacation spot. Hot take, I know. Here are some observations:

  • Two underappreciated qualities that give Hawaii its magical appeal are the remoteness in distance and time. You can go to lots of amazing islands in this world, but almost none are as physically remote as Hawaii. Related to this but not necessarily following except for the particular way our world is populated is the fact that it is very temporally remote. The rest of the world is asleep or done with their day when yours on the island is starting. This forces one to shrink their world down to a few mountains in the vast ocean abyss.
  • The reopening from the perspective of Hawaii is perhaps unsurprisingly behind what I've otherwise experienced. Anecdotally this was supported by other travelers who came from places more locked down than Oklahoma such as New York and California. They too were surprised by the policy phase Hawaii was still in.
  • Related to this was the part that both caused anxiety for me in preparing for the trip and frustration for me in navigating the travel. This is the Hawaiistan aspects whereby it was as if I were travelling to a third-world country. At the time when we were there (this policy was recently relaxed) the only vaccinations that were meaningful were those given on the island. The same shot from Pfizer, et al. given in another U.S. state gave no privilege--every entrant had to get the same COVID test done before arriving and not more than 72 hours before arrival. Testing in a pandemic is critical, but the various rules laid out for Hawaii, which I won't bother to fully go into here as others have covered this, and the way they were implemented had more to do with health theater and signaling than they did with science.
  • This should probably not be a surprise given that the Maui mayor thought it helpful/necessary to beg airlines to bring fewer tourists to the island. I guess that's how they solve for the equilibria in banana republics.
  • Speaking of banana republics and their policies, Hawaii generally and Maui specifically suffers from two self-imposed penalties--development restrictions and the Jones Act. 
    • On development - I understand that there is a bootleggers (resorts, others in the tourist industry, and current homeowners/developers) and Baptists (current residents who in many cases are self-described natives and who don't want things to change) story going on. I'm not sure everyone close to this issue does understand that. I am sensitive to the good, bad, and sometimes ugly history of how Hawaii is now a U.S. state. Blanket restrictions on and impediments to development imposed by government are not the solution. They are economically harmful making Hawaii poorer than it would otherwise be, which of course harms the poor the most. They are also culturally destructive creating a hostile environment of us versus them as opposed to a constructive environment of negotiated compromise and agreement. Finally they are morally repugnant when they allow the politically powerful to violate property rights.
    • On the Jones Act - this is "self-imposed" in that Hawaii is a U.S. state and this is a U.S. federal government policy. Hawaii itself is not responsible for it. However, why isn't the Hawaiian delegation to Washington and Hawaiians as a politically lobby effort not storming the Capitol on this one (figuratively speaking, of course)? 
  • Enough griping. Hawaii is awesome. The people I encountered (Hawaiians and tourists alike) were delightful. Aloha is not just a slogan. It is a warm and wonderful way of life that is embraced and practiced everywhere you go. I felt welcomed and appreciated in Hawaii by virtually every person I had the pleasure of engaging with.
A few recommendations:
  • Do some homework before travelling to decide how much of an activity vacation you want (there is plenty to do) and how much of a relaxation vacation you want (it is easy to not have enough as it takes time to drive, boat, walk to various destinations, everyone moves a bit slower than you might expect, and at every turn there is a siren call to spend more time).
  • Because of the odd time zone Hawaii has been placed in (it "should" be a hour or two earlier there when compared to most places) and because of the typical jetlag for U.S. travelers, Hawaii wakes up early and you will too. So it follows that it turns in for the evening before you probably expect. Just chalk it up to following Ben Franklin's advice and hope that it adds some wisdom to your life.
  • We stayed in Wailea on the southwestern shore. You can't probably go wrong between this area and the rival northwestern shore, but I do think it is easier to traverse from the SW part of the island. 
  • We stayed at The Fairmont, which is highly recommended provided you want a resort experience and a resort bill at the end.
  • The Road to Hana is highly demanding but can be highly rewarding. Planning here is key. There are good apps to guide your journey. You won't get it all in--the more you stop, the less distance you'll get. We actually went the entire loop around the "dangerous" undeveloped part of the island. It was truly treacherous at times but still doable for a minivan. Not sure if I'd recommend it as opposed to reversing course to head back home. But doing so wouldn't have saved us any time since I wanted to make it to the half-way point of The Pools at 'Ohe'o
  • From a prior trip, I can highly recommend biking down Haleakalā. 
  • Maui Pineapple Tour was very interesting and fun. I've never seen Dole's operation, but I image it to be on the other end of the production frontier--Maui Gold is charmingly but surprisingly a trip back to farming circa 1950.
  • Iao Needle state park is underappreciated. For the intrepid, consider disobeying the signs and hiking the prohibited trails. It is an awesome scenic adventure. 
  • Unfortunately I didn't get to try the many famous and/or recommended dining spots that are still on my Want To Go list. The two at the hotel,  and Nick's Fishmarket, were very good but . . . did I mention resort prices? The labor shortages were most acutely seen here as perhaps only 1/3rd of Ko was open and service in general throughout the island was poor.
  • For the price of airfare (explicit cost, time in the air, and jetlag effects) plan to stay in Hawaii for as long as possible--at least one week. There is always more to do including doing nothing.

Aloha!


No comments:

Post a Comment