As a reward to myself for blogging every day in May, I travelled to the place that is at the same time the most and the least American city, Las Vegas. It had been over two years since my last trip there, Super Bowl 2019. Some observations:
- It is largely unchanged at first appearance. The casinos are packed. Restaurants are hard to get into. Crowds are abundant.
- A studious observer will notice that even though casino open tables are full with high minimums, there are numerous ones, banks in fact, that are unopened. My guess as to the primary cause for this would be the labor shortage with depressed actual or forecasted demand as a secondary contributor.
- Speaking of the labor shortage, the struggle is real. I can support Scott Sumner's prediction and observation that labor supply is low and as a result service is poor. Let's be clear, everyone I encountered from a service perspective (waitstaff, front desk, concierge, retail clerks, etc.) did a great, friendly job. But service is SLOW. Restaurant wait times are crazy (more on this in the business thought below) and reservations are required--we almost had to slum it one night at Shake Shack but fortunately got into Din Tai Fung (more on where I ate far below). There are empty tables at "full" restaurants--not a strategically spaced COVID thing. Some have yet to open. Calls to concierge and guest services had very long waits on hold. And note this: those enormous signs out front on the strip, very valuable advertising real estate, had in their rotation help wanted ads among show previews, featured restaurants, and "...the loosest slots on the strip...".
- One of the reasons I went and took the whole family (more on this in the culture thought below) was to see the shows. Sadly, I was a bit early in my winter planning for this trip as the primary show draw for us, Cirque du Soleil, is not ready to open yet. This makes sense as it takes time to get the band back together so to speak.
- Masks were sparsely seen among the patrons. Probably 10% wearing them at most. Various staff is more like 75%. This was different at the poker tables as only about 20% of dealers wore them, but also about 20% of players. For the players I think this was a combination of a desire to use masks strategically as well as California CDS (just anecdotal but supported by several examples--young poker players from California and elsewhere were masking even though they admitted they were vaccinated).
Feel free to file several of the above under either or both 'lockdowns have long-term consequences' or 'pandemics have long-term consequences'.
Two more thoughts: one on culture and one on business.
- People have always asked me when I tell them I'm taking my kids to Vegas "What is there for kids?". The answer is lots, but it is deeper than that for me. The world is for all of us. I don't subscribe to the idea that we should shelter kids in incubation chambers until they are ready for the real world. The real world gets them ready for the real world. Yes there are obvious limits. Yet this isn't simply a disagreement about a matter of degree. I think there are hard and soft lines between what a kid should and shouldn't be exposed to. People including if not especially kids are antifragile. We walked in the heat (108) as well as in the air conditioned resorts. We saw the beautiful people among the beautiful gardens of Bellagio as well as the desperately troubled on the decidedly rough sidewalks. Of course we did not attend a strip club. At the same time I did not hide their eyes at the scantily clad girls (and guys) selling groupie photo ops. Piff the Magic Dragon's show was excellent with the adult language that is not generally my 9-year-old daughter's vocabulary. I think my kids saw repeated great examples from me and my group and many others we encountered that a Las Vegas experience can be great fun while still being responsibly and reasonably behaved and coexisting with bad, excessive, undesired behavior all with the attendant consequences.
- As mentioned above, there were long wait times for restaurants among other things. Some of this is a temporary phenomenon that will abate as the reopening completes. Yet some of it is an enduring problem. First some history: In the mid 1970s William Bennett and William Pennington began transforming Las Vegas by developing a more family-friendly environment and a more expanded idea on what the Vegas bundle should include. Add to this the innovations Steve Wynn developed. Gradually the idea that Vegas should be stingy rooms, cheap food, limited shows, and free drinks all with the desire to get gamblers gambling gave way to the idea that these other areas could be profit centers themselves and of greatly higher quality and variety. Then came the metric revolution advanced greatly by Harrah's so that the casinos could understand their customers better tailoring the experience more individually (profit maximizing price discrimination). For a long time I yearned for the casinos to recognize and reward me for not just my gaming but also for all the other revenue I was bringing with me (hotel room, restaurant spending, show attendance, etc.). Slowly this has finally been happening to where on this past trip almost all my high-end food spending is credited to my value as a customer. But there are still unclaimed chips laying on the casino floor. The OG business model dies hard. Our room at Aria was very nice, but still lacked some basic desires. I would have liked and used a minifridge that was not stocked with high-priced items with a hair-trigger system ready to charge me for an inadvertent nudging. Keep that there, but give me another one that is empty--maybe at an upcharge. How about a coffee maker or Nespresso in the room? Presumably the casino is thinking they want me out of that room on the casino floor or at the pool ordering drinks or in a restaurant. However, keep in mind they definitely do offer room service. More to the point think about the tradeoff. Instead of popping a K-cup right out of bed, I went downstairs to Starbucks in the Promenade waiting over 30 minutes in line. The wait outside the popular Salt & Ivy for brunch was >1 hour. This is not productive time for the hotel/casino. People who were not waiting right outside the restaurant looking at their phones instead were walking away to find another place probably in another property. Waiting on queue is a dead-weight loss in need of a creative, profitable solution.
Finally, here are the places where we ate with all being recommendable:
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